Have you ever watched an archer hit a bullseye and thought, “I want to try that”? I get it – there’s something almost magical about nocking an arrow, taking aim, and watching it fly. But when I first started looking into archery, I was completely overwhelmed by all the options. Should I go with a recurve or compound? What draw weight is right for me? And why does everything cost so much?
If you’re feeling lost in the woods of archery equipment choices, you’ve landed in the right place. I’ve gone through the trial and error so you don’t have to, and I’m here to break down everything you need to know about choosing your first bow. Let’s get you hitting targets instead of hitting roadblocks!
Bow Types: Finding Your Perfect Match
Recurve Bows: The Beginner’s Best Friend
When I first started looking at bows, everyone kept pointing me toward recurves – and for good reason. Recurve bows are the Toyota Corollas of the archery world: reliable, straightforward, and perfect for learning.
The recurve gets its name from the way the limbs curve away from you when the bow is unstrung. This clever design isn’t just for looks – it stores more energy and sends arrows flying with better efficiency than straight-limbed bows.
What I love most about recurves for beginners is their simplicity. There are fewer moving parts to worry about, which means fewer things that can go wrong while you’re learning. Plus, modern takedown recurves let you swap out limbs as you get stronger, so your bow can literally grow with you.
Most beginners should look at bows with draw weights between:
- 15-25 pounds for teens
- 20-30 pounds for women
- 25-35 pounds for men
My first recurve cost about $200 for a complete package, and I still use it years later. Brands like Samick Sage offer great starter options without breaking the bank.
Compound Bows: High-Tech Power
Compound bows are like the sports cars of archery – they look cool, perform amazingly, but might be a bit much for someone who’s just learning to drive.
The defining feature of compound bows is their pulley/cam system that provides “let-off” – meaning once you pull the string back to full draw, the bow actually holds most of the weight for you. Some compounds reduce the holding weight by up to 80%, which is why you’ll see archers holding at full draw for what seems like forever before releasing.
While compounds offer incredible power and precision, they come with a steeper learning curve and a heftier price tag. Most beginner-friendly compounds start around $500 and require more maintenance and tuning than recurves.
I recommend compounds for beginners who:
- Have a specific interest in hunting
- Know they’re committed to archery long-term
- Have a larger budget to work with
- Don’t mind a more complex learning process
Traditional Longbows: Connecting with History
I’ll never forget the first time I shot a traditional longbow. There was something almost spiritual about using the same basic design archers have used for centuries.
Longbows are the simplest in design – just a piece of wood (or modern materials) shaped into that classic D shape. They’re beautiful, elegant, and challenging in the best way.
However, I don’t typically recommend longbows for absolute beginners. They’re less forgiving of mistakes, harder to master, and typically don’t come with the helpful accessories modern bows include. They’re more of a “second bow” for many archers who fall in love with the sport.
Finding Your Fit: Physical Considerations
Eye Dominance: The Foundation of Your Stance
Before you spend a dime on equipment, you need to figure out your dominant eye. This surprised me when I started – I’m right-handed but left-eye dominant, which affects everything about how I shoot.
Try this quick test:
- Make a small triangle with your hands at arm’s length
- Center a distant object in that triangle (keep both eyes open)
- Close your left eye – if the object stays centered, you’re right-eye dominant
- If the object moves out of the triangle, you’re left-eye dominant
Your dominant eye determines which hand should draw the bow, regardless of which hand you write with. It feels weird at first if they don’t match, but trust me – fighting your eye dominance will cause headaches down the road.
Draw Length: Getting the Measurement Right
Your draw length is like your shoe size for archery – get it wrong, and nothing feels right. It’s the distance from the bow grip to the string at full draw, and it varies from person to person.
A quick estimate: stand with your arms outstretched and measure your wingspan from fingertip to fingertip. Divide that number by 2.5, and you’ll get a reasonable approximation of your draw length.
For example, my 70-inch wingspan gives me a draw length of 28 inches. This number affects everything from which bow you can use to which arrows you’ll need.
Most adult men fall between 27-30 inches, while women typically range from 25-28 inches. Youth archers will have shorter draw lengths based on their size.
Draw Weight: The Most Common Beginner Mistake
If I could tell beginners just one thing, it would be this: start with a lower draw weight than you think you need. There’s nothing that kills archery enthusiasm faster than struggling with a bow that’s too heavy.
Draw weight is how many pounds of force it takes to pull the string back. While it might be tempting to start with a higher weight (especially for us guys with our egos), overbowing yourself leads to:
- Poor shooting form
- Frustration and discouragement
- Potential injury
- Slower overall progress
Remember these recommended starting points:
- Children (8-12): 10-15 pounds
- Teens (13-17): 15-25 pounds
- Adult women: 20-30 pounds
- Adult men: 25-35 pounds
You can always move up in weight as your archery-specific muscles develop. I started with a 25-pound recurve even though I could physically pull more, and it helped me learn proper form without strain.
Budget Breakdown: What to Expect
Entry-Level Costs: Getting Started Right
Let’s talk money – because archery can be as expensive or as affordable as you make it. Based on current 2024 prices, here’s what you can expect to spend:
Recurve Package:
- Bow: $150-$300
- Arrows (6): $40-$60
- Arm Guard: $15-$25
- Finger Tab: $10-$20
- Quiver: $20-$40
- Total: $235-$445
Compound Package:
- Bow: $500-$800
- Arrows (6): $80-$120
- Release Aid: $30-$100
- (Arm guard and quiver often included)
- Total: $610-$1,020
I started with a complete recurve kit for about $250, and it served me well for my first year. If you’re not sure archery is for you, recurve is definitely the more budget-friendly entry point.
Where to Spend vs. Where to Save
Not all archery gear is created equal, and knowing where to invest and where to save can make a big difference. Here’s what I’ve learned:
Worth Spending More On:
- Arrows: Good arrows make a bigger difference than most beginners realize. Carbon/aluminum hybrids around $10 per arrow will outperform cheap fiberglass options.
- Bow String: A quality string reduces stretching and provides more consistent shots.
- Protective Gear: A good arm guard prevents painful string slap – your forearm will thank you.
Areas to Save:
- Fancy Sights: Basic pin sights work fine for beginners.
- High-End Stabilizers: Start simple and upgrade later.
- Premium Cases: A simple case does the job until you’re traveling regularly for competitions.
Learning the Ropes: Getting Started Right
The Value of Professional Instruction
I tried to teach myself archery using YouTube videos at first. Three months later, I took an actual lesson and realized I’d been doing almost everything wrong. Don’t be like me.
Statistics show that coached beginners achieve consistent groupings 43% faster than self-taught archers. Most archery shops offer beginner lessons, and the $150-$200 investment for a 6-week course will save you countless hours of frustration.
A good coach will help with:
- Proper stance and form
- Safety protocols
- Equipment selection advice
- Troubleshooting common issues
Joining the Community: Club Benefits
One of the best decisions I made was joining a local archery club. For about $50-$100 annually, I gained:
- Access to certified coaches
- Indoor and outdoor ranges
- Equipment loan programs
- New friends who share my interest
- Competition opportunities
Plus, there’s something motivating about shooting alongside others who can offer tips and encouragement when you’re having an off day.
Common Beginner Pitfalls to Avoid
In my years of shooting and talking with other archers, I’ve noticed these same mistakes pop up repeatedly:
- Starting Too Heavy: As mentioned earlier, overbowing is the #1 beginner mistake. Start lighter than you think you need.
- Arrow Mismatch: Using arrows that are too stiff (overspined) or too flexible (underspined) for your bow creates inconsistent, unsafe shooting. Consult spine charts when selecting arrows.
- Skipping Fundamentals: Many beginners want to jump straight to advanced techniques or hunting scenarios without mastering basic form. Patience pays off.
- Neglecting Maintenance: Strings wear out, bolts loosen, and limbs can crack. Develop a regular inspection routine to keep your equipment safe and performing well.
- Comparison Frustration: Everyone progresses at different rates. Don’t get discouraged if someone who started the same time as you is progressing faster.
Is Recurve or Compound Better for Beginners?
This is probably the most common question I hear, and I wish the answer were simple. The truth is, it depends on your goals.
Recurve might be better if:
- You want to start with lower investment
- You enjoy the traditional aspect of archery
- You’re interested in Olympic-style target shooting
- You prefer simplicity and easy maintenance
- You want to develop fundamental skills that transfer to all bow types
Compound might be better if:
- You’re primarily interested in hunting
- You have physical limitations that make holding at full draw difficult
- You’re looking for maximum precision over traditional experience
- Budget isn’t a major concern
- You enjoy the technical aspects of tuning and adjusting equipment
Personally, I think most beginners benefit from starting with a recurve to learn proper form and technique. The skills transfer easily to compound later if you decide to switch.
Conclusion: Taking Your First Shot
Selecting your first bow doesn’t have to be overwhelming. By understanding the basics of bow types, getting properly fitted for draw length and weight, and working within your budget, you’ll be well on your way to enjoying this amazing sport.
Remember that archery is a journey, not a destination. Your first bow is just that – your first. As you develop as an archer, your preferences and needs may change, and that’s all part of the adventure.
So what are you waiting for? Visit your local archery shop, try some different bows, and take that first step toward hitting the bullseye. The archery community is waiting to welcome you!
Have you already started your archery journey? What was your first bow? Share your experience in the comments below!